The nature has won – Porto Conte, Sardinia.

The wind was quite strong, especially if you tried reaching the top of the hill. The sea was unsettled, crashing its waves into the rocky beach. The Nature was still a queen here, despite people trying to take over the space. They gave up later on, leaving with their heads down, admitting the defeat. At the end of the day She was here longer than they, waiting patiently for their inevitable retreat.

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The area is vast and wild, with endless examples of early Neolithic settlements, remains of Roman period villas and Spanish period costal towers. The beautiful bay of Calich lagoon is trying to coat the sea, smooth it, often without success, especially when the weather is unsettled and the sea refuses to be calmed. The beaches are full of stones but sandy too, allowing people to stay and enjoy the view. The Nature is merciful during the summer months but quite unforgiving during the noisy winter and autumn.  

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We have marched reaching the top of the cliff, looking down at turbulent sea crashing below into the rocks, playing the eternal game of forces. We have touched the smooth from the constantly blowing wind walls of the Spanish tower at the top, slowly losing its integrity, giving up to the forces of Nature, like their creators earlier. Our guide, equipped with everything what we would need in case of emergency, led us further into the park, to show us its hidden beauty and inhabitants.

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The wild boar stood in the middle of the road we wanted to take, sniffing and making up its mind. A bird cried in a distance and the boar decided to come back to its own business, quickly reaching the group of bushes and disappearing, leaving us in peace. Our guide lead us further into the wildness so we could catch a glimpse of fallow deer and wild horses, settling themselves to an evening meal, when the sun was slowly disappearing, keeping enough light for them to feed.

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The herd was about 20 or so heads, feeding on the grass, lifting their distinctive heads from time to time, watching the surroundings carefully. We kept quiet, slowly reaching the area designated to peek into their life. Suddenly the male with a massive antlers looked straight at our little group, like he wanted to assess who we were and if we are not dangerously close to the rest of the herd. We froze, holding our breaths, like we could disappear, make ourselves invisible to him, so he and his family could stay longer, letting us steal more from their life. He turned his head, cast a long look at the opposite side of the meadow and reassured came back to feeding, checking his surroundings from time to time.

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The sun started disappearing and we have decided to come back, leaving the Nature and her home untacked, feeling privileged to be guests for the day, climbing the rocks, touching the sea and looking down into the blue and noisy abyss.

Practicalities:

Getting there: the park can be accessed by car, by road from Alghero after passing the village of Fertilia along SS 127-bis. Then you should see the sign you need to follow. There is no fee at the entrance, but groups which are larger than 20 must book in advance. For more information head here

Porto Conte

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